HYPER MINIS

I got an awesome light kit from http://www.billscustomrclighting.com/
He's a member on another forum I visit. I talked to him on the phone the other day and ended up just chatting for a while about RC's. He's excellent to deal with, the quality of his work is top notch and guarantees his work for like 30 days. He's such an awesome guy he'll probably help you out even after the 30 days are up.

If you're looking for some lights for your RC's, I suggest you check out Bill's site.
He can pretty much make anything you want.



Only took me like 4 or 5 hours start to pics. That includes making sure the holes are even, angled right and just big enough; finding a hot glue gun and glue sticks then waiting for it to heat up; making sure each light only stuck out so far and pointed straight then waiting for the glue to cool.
We'll see how long it takes for me to type this and post the right pics.

It was a fairly slow process for me cuz it was my first light kit.
The next one should go a little quicker cuz I know what to expect now.

You'll have to bear with some blurry pics, it's hard to hold a camera still for prolonged exposure.
I did manage to get a few clean pics tho.

First off, Bill's lights are awesome. Excellent quality and very bright.
The two lights on the outside are shown without the bezels, which are metal and would look great if your application permits them.
The Honda S2000 body is too curvy and I couldn't use them.



When I talked to Bill on the phone about what lights I wanted I mentioned the '49 Merc body I painted and how the taillights were painted red and not backed.
I taped a red LED behind each lens to see how it looked. I tried white LED's but the red looked better...





Just after getting the LED's glued into the holes...







and then set on the floor...





Then I spent a good chunk of time deciding on how to run the wire and where to mount the battery and switch.
I could have mounted it under the roof, but the windows are clear so it ended up like this:



I had to move the battery around a couple times before I found a spot where it wasn't hitting the chassis and preventing the body from sitting properly.
I need to move a square of velcro cuz the battery really needs two and I only had one left that I didn't already stick down.



The switch is on there pretty good, but we'll see how long it stays mounted after a few bumps.

I have no idea if the way I did the wiring will affect the receiver or esc (cause glitching), I just finished gluing everything down and took pics.
I'm too tired to test drive it. I'm trying to stay awake to finish this post, but when I'm done with this, I'm done and I'll sleep well knowing I finished it.

I'll test it tomorrow, if it works I'll get some video and post it.

Here are the finished, body-on pics...























^ One taillight is off a little but I dunno if there's much I can do about it now. It's not that bad, I can live with it (for now).
I don't think adjusting it is an option without re-gluing it, which would be a little time consuming with the amount of glue I already put on there.

I might tint the windows and then spray-paint the glue black or tape up the lights a little so they're not shining all through the body.
Tho it does look kinda cool, almost like underglow.

wow man, that looks really really good, the front lights are very scale.

what is going to happen to that switch when you hit something? fall right off i bet.

what about mounting it just under a side window and putting a small hole in the window to flip the switch?

I pulled on the switch a little and it seems pretty sturdy. There isn't much room between the switch and the foam bumper, so maybe the bumper will keep the front end from flexing and popping the glue off. I'm also going to be more cautious of front end impacts. Tho being a drift car, it's sideways most of the time so that's where most impacts happen. If it does come off, I'll just try to relocate it elsewhere or use something stronger to secure it where it is now. The way the wiring is laid out and glued down, the switch might only make it to a corner of the windshield.

I traded Bill a 6pc tool set for my lights, but he sells this kit for like $13 + shipping.
He's got 5mm lights (mine), 10mm and I think he's starting to use 8mm too.
All kits come with metal bezels which look really nice. I'm kinda bummed I couldn't use them with this body, but I'm stoked on how it came out.
He said the LED's are like, rated for 1,000hrs but they last longer.
They're rated to like 12-14 volts but he's had them, or someone else has had them up to 18v. Like hooked up to the RC's power supply (two packs).

I would definitely recommend Bill's lights to anyone. He's a great guy to deal with and his work is top notch.

with the lights is it easy to see at night or wat

I always make my own and design my circuits to use 6V input, then I connect the lights to a spare channel on the receiver, this only draws a couple hundred mah's and won't have any effect on servo operation.

In doing this you eliminate the heavy auxiliary battery and added switch.

In those cars where the receiver is inside a box (which would make connecting/disconnecting the wires to take the body off difficult) you can use a short servo extension.

Excellent Job!!! Looks great and your wiring in nice a neat

Bills lights are always top notch!

Heath